Joe, to use your 18 sheets of hx200 film, are you going to need 18 pieces of glass (of slightly larger size) to laminate each one onto? Just curious to know the practicality to use these photopolymere.
Also, what safety light/wavelength do you work with during the recording?
Looking for photopolymer films
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Finding new homes for holography-related items is encouraged. Even commercial enterprises with goods to offer are welcome as long as it is in the spirit of members helping members. If a for-sale post reads like an infomercial, though, you have probably crossed the line of acceptability.
Finding new homes for holography-related items is encouraged. Even commercial enterprises with goods to offer are welcome as long as it is in the spirit of members helping members. If a for-sale post reads like an infomercial, though, you have probably crossed the line of acceptability.
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Joe Farina
- Posts: 805
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2015 2:10 pm
Re: Looking for photopolymer films
Like Bob said previously, the films have a stickiness comparable to a post-it note. First remove the PE protective film by sticking a piece of adhesive tape to the corner, and peel it away. Then laminate it to your glass (a rubber roller is good for this). Bubbles and dust can be a problem at this stage, but results will improve after you get the hang of it. After exposure (and after UV curing), the film can be peeled away from the glass, if desired. As is usual with holography, many exposures will probably be required before you get a hologram worth keeping. So, you can keep re-using the same piece of glass. After exposure and UV curing (which according to others is no big deal, i.e., sunlight etc. can be used) the film will lose most of its tackiness.
Fo safelighting, I use a yellow light, either LED or the so-called "bug light" (in the US). Enough to see, but not an excessive amount of light. The Bayfol film is panchromatic, so a minimum amount of safelighting should be used. It is sensitive to yellow, but of course this film is slow compared to silver halide, and the eye is quite sensitive to yellow. Overall, safelighting should not be much of a problem.
I don't know what techniques others are using for "final" lamination, I haven't gotten that far yet. My first two exposures were successful. This material is definitely impressive.
Fo safelighting, I use a yellow light, either LED or the so-called "bug light" (in the US). Enough to see, but not an excessive amount of light. The Bayfol film is panchromatic, so a minimum amount of safelighting should be used. It is sensitive to yellow, but of course this film is slow compared to silver halide, and the eye is quite sensitive to yellow. Overall, safelighting should not be much of a problem.
I don't know what techniques others are using for "final" lamination, I haven't gotten that far yet. My first two exposures were successful. This material is definitely impressive.