I usually aim for 2 to 3 minutes in the developer. I don't know the actual OD that I take the film to, because I use the when-the-safelight-gets-barely-visible technique of developing. Unfortunately, Fuji is a pan emulsion, so I can't use my usual (red) safelight and can't use my seat-of-the-pants technique. I actually use an orange LED with the limiting resistor cranked down so it's pretty dim. But, since my intuitive method of judging by the safelight no longer works, so I usually go for two and a half minutes and adjust exposure according to results.holomaker wrote:(never gone 2 minuets in developing bath)
By the way, for any interested parties out there, it is possible to track your development visually if you're using monchromatic emulsion. Get a laser (or even an LED) of the opposite colour of your emulsion for a transmission hologram (red diode for green-blue film, eg) and hit the wet, black film with it at roughly the reference beam angle. Typically, an unbleached transmission is about 5 to 10% so shining a laser through it will show a 2d image on a wall. So, as you develop, when it begins to turn dark, if you stand it up and zap with the opposite colour laser so as to project an image on a wall or screen every few seconds, you'll see it go brighter and brighter, then get dimmer and dimmer. There is a technique where you can do this real-time, in situ by having fiber go underneath your developing dish so you see the image come up as you develop. It's a little tricky to do this for a display piece, though, because you have to look at it at the right angle.