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DJ Mathson

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Post by DJ Mathson »

Very cool!
How do you make the two images alternate?
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

DJ Mathson wrote:Very cool!
How do you make the two images alternate?
Using Stereophoto maker (http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/).
As every good program it's a freeware of course.

greetings
Adam
JohnFP

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Post by JohnFP »

WOW, those are really cool. The wobble vision really makes them look 3-d. I love em.
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

I think they will be much cooler as pulsed holograms :twisted:
Whee, I just can't wait :D

greetings
Adam
info.crew

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Post by info.crew »

Impressive photos.
I have a question: How did you synchronize the two cameras?
I did some similar technique - mixing images together with some program for 3D vision with blue-red glasses. The images was shot separately with one camera. If I find some on my computer, i will post it here.
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

I connected shutter switches in parallel (but synchronization is not very good - 0,01s or so), but there is no need for close synchronization with these high-speed photos. I could just press both shutter buttons at roughly the same time.
I open both shutters in near-darkness (so exposure time is 2-4s) and fire the gun. Sound sensor activates delay circuit and then the flashlamp is fired. At the end both shutters close. That's all.

Here's the link to trigger/delay circuit:
https://ritdml.rit.edu/dspace/bitstream ... 3-2006.pdf

The flashlamp is a modified Ikelite Substrobe 50 diving lamp. I've grounded quenching wire, so the lamp self-quenches immediately after firing. Instead of ultra-bright 1ms flash I have quite a dim one, but lasting maybe 20us.
My next source of light will give slightly shorter pulse :wink:

greetings
Adam
Tom B.

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Post by Tom B. »

Very nice work! The stereophoto maker link is helpful too. Thanks!
Tom B.

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Post by Tom B. »

If someone wanted to buy a pair of cameras to try this, what features would you advise? Or, if you had to do it again, what cameras would you have used? I imagine it would be nice if the camera size and lens position allowed positioning two cameras at normal eye spacing in both landscape and portrait format, but I wonder what else would be helpful... not just for flash exposures, but normal stereo photography.

Maybe of interest if you haven't seen it: http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Pages/3DG ... isplay.htm
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

If someone wanted to buy a pair of cameras to try this, what features would you advise? Or, if you had to do it again, what cameras would you have used?
X31 is a nice camera, but it would be more convenient to buy something with manual settings (including focus), better zoom (5x or so), autofocus with LED. Low CCD matrix noise, IR/radio/wire remote, LANC (Sony) or ability to connect 2 cameras via USB (Canons), cheap memory cards and powering by AA batteries are nice features too. I got used to connecting shutters in parallel, but it requires opening the camera and voids the warranty. Anyway it worked with all my cameras (2x Medion4023, 2x Canon A200, 2x Minolta Z3 and now 2x Minolta X31).
I imagine it would be nice if the camera size and lens position allowed positioning two cameras at normal eye spacing in both landscape and portrait format, but I wonder what else would be helpful... not just for flash exposures, but normal stereo photography.
For everyday photography 6,5cm stereobase works fine for distances to photographed objects between 2 and 30m.
I invested in Minoltas X31 because the objective window is off-center, at the top-right corner. So its possible to have 2cm stereobase in portrait mode and 2,5cm in landscape mode. This way my objects may be as close as 30cm from the objectives and its almost possible to make stereomacros.
Maybe of interest if you haven't seen it: http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Pages/3DG ... isplay.htm
I've seen it before. Thanks.
Prof. Hart has a nice description for making stereomacros using 2 cams and 50/50 beamplitter.

greetings
Adam
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